Love, a Shantytown Anecdote

Rosa is a woman in her early thirties with two preschool-age children. She and her husband fled their native town of Ica after the massive earthquake of 2007 and moved into Villa del Sur, an extreme poverty section in San Juan de Miraflores. She has been an enthusiastic supporter of the UNO/OLLAS Service Learning program in Lima. She told me laughing, “I have to support it; where would my children go otherwise?” We have become familiar seeing her walking up and down the dirt yard organizing mothers, supporting teachers and advising children while the UNO students worked.

The community parents had committed themselves to build a new bathroom. The old one is too far away from the classrooms and mothers were afraid that something bad could happen to the children while they were not under supervision of the teachers. Villa del Sur, after all, is a rough neighborhood. Supported by Arturo, they began building the new bathroom on Saturday while our students were painting the module. Sunday they ran out of bricks but felt embarrassed to call Arturo asking for money again. Rosa and the teachers calculated that if each parent would donate one brick they could finish the bathroom. They called the parents and asked them that each of them would bring a brick next day. To their dismay, only a few parents fulfilled the promise and the masons were soon short of bricks again…

So, Rosa picked the mason’s wheel barrow and went around the neighborhood knocking at doors, “I think you own me a brick,” she would say, smiling. At the end of the day, she had collected all the bricks needed to complete the bathroom.

Tomorrow we will celebrate the children’s new module and a bathroom built by their fathers’ hands and, of course, Rosa’s perseverance.

Dr. Celle

Privatization at What Cost

The other day our group visited the Port of Callao. Founded in 1537, this port is the largest in Lima and among the largest along the western American coast. Before continuing I must note the dramatic advancements in the port since my visit last year. This port is broken into two sections, the nationalized port to the north and the privatitized port in the south. In the northern port, a large crane capable moving 25 transfer units an hour was added. In the south much more dramatic changes are underway. In a meeting with a civil engineer of the Port, he explained the plans for the privatized section. Purchased by a Dubai shipping company, the southern port is planned to be expanded upon in ten total phases. The first two phases alone are expected to cost a total of 1.25 billion dollars. Below is an animation of the master plan to the future Dubai Port in Lima.

For those who are unaware, when an industry is opened to private investment many things can change for the better and the worse. It is evident that by allowing outside investors access to a country's national resources and industries a country can see rapid advancements in the industries of discussion. Other benefits are further evident such as the savings from maintaining infrastructure of the said industries. In the United States for example, many of the power companies are being privatized in efforts to move government funds to other industries in dire need. However, the over privatization of any industry can be detrimental to any country, especially one as small Peru. The first problem to be addressed in the case of the port of Callao is that the Navy is located within the port and privatizing around the naval base threatens national security. Dubai has made offers to purchase the entire port of Callao, but at the Peruvian government’s resilience, Dubai is first expanding on the southern side of the port. It was said best when a worker of Callao explained his concerns and exclaimed, “We are selling the jewels of the crown.” Why should and would one have such concern for outside investors that are expanding revenues and technologies in their country? The answer is that everyone should be skeptical of any policy or notion that has short and fast gains, for history proves that they turn out to be superbly problematic.

Oscar Duran: BA History, MA Urban Sociology, OLLAS Service Learning Staff

Ethics

Today we visited Gamarra, a forty block gated district where clothing is made. We saw all kinds of names we recognize in the States and commonly wear--Holister, Rip Curl, Abercrombie, DC, and dozens more for about a fifth of the cost in the States. Sweet deal for shopping right? Well, the first thing we did before shopping was visit the places the garmets were made--sweat shops. I felt myself trapped in an ethical dilema: I have to wear clothes, obviously, however much of what I wear is probably made somewhere like this! People work 48 hours a week for S/ 800 a month--less than $300. Yet, they are lucky to have jobs. If we didn't buy the clothing, these people would have no jobs. It is a never ending cycle for which I cannot find a solution! Obviously, a solution would be to pay the workers better and give them benefits, but if they will not do it, then those working on the streets in the informal sector will quickly jump into their places and work for the same conditions, because while the circumstances are poor, they are still better than those on the street. I felt so twisted and torn today and don't know what to think about it. Is there a realistic solution?

Erin Gesell BA: Creative Writing

Second Time Around

Thus far the students have regaled the readers of this blog with their impressions of their first visit to Peru as a part of this year’s Latin American Study Abroad program. Mine is a little different-–I was here last year, and this year I bring the comparative analysis of the differences and similarities between visits to the foreground. It has also been quite notable just how much my own reality at home has changed in such a short period of time as well. These two factors serve as my point of departure.

First, the sensory overload of the trip is not as dominant as the last time around. I remember being clearly angered by the lack of North American functionality to this urban center-–oh, how provincial of me-–but the clogged streets and traffic congestion, the pollution choked air and the seeming endless squalor lying next to environmental refuge, archeological sites and very tony neighborhoods are all still there. This may be a bad thing, that one quickly gets used to this and begins to look for other signs of progress and disorder under their nose-–and it appears that this has happened to me. Second, this group of students is far better prepared-–in terms of history and context, analytical acumen and intellectual curiosity, the group as a whole is much better suited to grind through the busy and sometimes astounding revelations of their time “in country.”

Third, I had a bit of a friendly go around with Dr. Celle last evening regarding my contention that "in the wake of the economic crisis in the U.S., elements of the problems that had plagued Latin America were now becoming evident in the North American experience." Serial boom and bust economic cycles devastating specific market sectors, growing pockets of fabulous wealth a mere stone's throw from deepening and terminal poverty, the impact of economic displacement and human in-migration overwhelming the ability communities of all sizes to deal with its impact, crumbling national infrastructure, the outright effort of a nation’s leadership to subvert the rule of law and the constitutional basis of governance to advance the flimsy foreign policy objectives aimed at taking the attention away from real problems, glaring deficiencies and demagoguery, all while conjuring an external or internal bogey man in its place. It has all felt very “banana republic.”

Dr Celle and I agreed that many of the elements are indeed present and growing, but she argued in return that by terming the process of a “growing Latin American-ization” of the U.S. economy that I perhaps would allow others to conflate the changes with the mere presence and cultural influence of Latin American migration to the north. You know, the increased number of taco trucks, Salvadoran dishwashers, Spanish language radio stations equates with Latin America. That is not the rationale or logic behind the categorization. Rather, I look to the manner in which neoliberal economic modalities may have run their course in the global economy-–simultaneous expanding markets and eliciting “creative destruction” on economies of all types because of the forces that have been unleashed upon the world because of trade liberalization, privatization and massive de-regulation. She suggested that a third world-ization might be better.

Here is an illustration: you take a two year old to the beach and are marveling at its ability to scamper at the shore. All are pleased by its new found confidence at the edge of such a powerful force. No one would think of placing that same child in the breakers. That will come with time, growth, knowledge and experience. Because even if they are small breakers for an adult, there is no way that the two year old would be able to keep its balance and could very likely be badly hurt or drown. Yet, this is what we have been extolling--no demanding--of developing economies for the past generation, and we wonder why they can’t get their act together. If you add the self inflicted sins of greed, avarice, corruption and a lack of political will it is all too easy to see why they are destined to not do so well.

Interestingly, the very same forces that are whipping these economies are nipping at the heels of the American lifestyle. The image of Marx’s “running dogs of capitalism” clearing a path for the carriages of the “captains of industry” through the streets of squalor in 19th century London is so apropos. But there is one distinct departure from that picture, the dogs have gotten loose. What we didn’t know was that they didn’t have names, and we have no way to call them back. To compound the problem, we laid off the dog catchers too.

So as this year’s iteration of the program winds down, the experience is one that has been practically and intellectually challenging for the faculty, staff and students alike. Each has been confronted with a problem set that is in flux and demands the ability to think on one’s feet to be able to make sense of the complexities that a mega-city such as Lima presents. There is much to like about this place--its people, the food, the immigrant history, the beauty. I haven’t liked the hotel’s coffee as much so I am going to get a café Americano at Starbuck’s, the Italian café does not open until 7. It’s only 6:00AM!

Dr. Benjamin Alvarado: BA International Relations, MA International Policy Studies, Ph. D. Political Science

Service in the Community

The lives of the people which are living in the shantytowns are challenging on an everyday basis. After learning about these people's plight throughout the semester it really has come to life during this trip. You really don’t appreciate the differences in our worlds until you step out of ours and see the trash strewn about their streets and their living conditions. Being able to bring a little hope into the people’s lives has been a very rich and rewarding experience. I am reminded of why I took this course and this trip when I see the smiles on the faces of the children.

Today we finished working on the module for them. Seeing the community’s excitement over our arrival and their willingness to assist us gives me great hope for their community as it seems they have a fire lit under them. This addition to their community would be a modest addition in our communities but is a large step up for their neighborhood. By giving these people the resources to educate their children we are giving them the opportunity to take the initiative and create a better future for their children.

Justin Morales: BA Political Science

My Service Learning Experience

Each place in the planet has something interesting to show, but Peru is without any doubt a privileged country because of its great natural, cultural and human richness. Anyone that loves nature will definitely be gratified by the diversity of its environments and sights. Peru will blow your imagination for its acute contrast between its forests and deserts by the coast; its impetuous snowed mountains, the Andes; its jungle in the Amazon region; and you would be surprised by its variety of flora and fauna, which is unique in the world, that characterize these regions. If you love history, Peru is definitely the right place for you to visit. Peru is a magnificent testimony of a great ancestral civilization of six antique millenniums. This country is full of incomparable cultural profiles, and you will find access to the best examples--in paintings, sculpture and architecture--of all the fusion of the American and Hispanic cultures.
Now that you know a little bit about Peru, I want to share this video about our Service-Learning Project in Peru. I hope you can enjoy seeing these lovely children as I visited them one morning during their regular day. I am posting some pictures of the classroom conditions before we provided this module last year in 2008; and I will also share some pictures of the first phase of the module that we have installed this year. The power of education is without any question invaluable. So often we take for granted what we have…I hope that as you watch this video and view these pictures you can reflect on how you can make a difference in the lives of others. First, we must start with ourselves. Second, our own local community; and finally, we can help others. Do not underestimate the power of your own education. The University of Nebraska at Omaha is a resource available to all of us to make these differences in ourselves and the others around us. Enjoy the video and the pictures!

CARITAS FELICES – BEFORE (May 2008)

Structure 1 Construction (May 2008)

Arturo Miranda, Spanish Instructor-Department of Foreign Languages & Graduate Assistant,
Cox Communications Fellow- OLLAS Service Learning Staff

Continued Service

On the way home from our second day of service work we gave some of the local teachers a ride on our bus and dropped them off half way home. I discovered that they were going to participate in a demonstration for teachers in Peru, but more specifically, a demonstration of teachers in the shanty town. It turns out that the teachers have not been paid for three months. What seemed so odd to me was that most schools in the shanty towns were built by, paid for and run by community members with minimal, if any financial help from the government. It seems to me that when the economy gets a bit rough, the poor are the first to be pushed aside; education funds being the first to be withheld. Out of sight, out of mind seems to be the attitude of the Peruvian government toward the poor. All the studying and reading in the world could not have brought this into perspective like witnessing it first hand in the slums of Lima.

Jason Melton: BA Political Science & Speech Communication

I Became a Student

On the first day we were to visit the shantytown, Dr. Celle said we would be would entering a “gray world.” And she was right. As we drove farther and farther from Miraflores, the green boulevards and patios brimming with flowers in a riot of color began to fade to dusty streets lined in ramshackle dwellings of gray, tired brown and beige. Dirt lanes wound up impossible hills in an endless moonscape of poverty. I felt overwhelmed by the scene and depressed by the conditions so many faced everyday. Then we arrived at the preschool that the UNO students had developed the past year, and everything changed again. The children were there to meet us, their eyes bright with excitement and smiles as dazzling as the sun. In their hands they held brightly painted placards welcoming us their school and their world. It was the same today in our second visit to work on the new module that will become a preschool and a nursery. There was great anticipation as we unloaded the supplies from the bus and began to work with the parents to apply sealant to the entire building and paint to the exterior. Believe me, it’s a vibrant color that reflects the vitality of this community of people who have worked so hard to create this opportunity for their children.

At first glance this environment does look pretty bleak, but there is great energy in this place. These parents have a real vision of a better future and are so willing to help us understand that even though those with power may see you as worthless, that doesn’t make it true unless you believe it yourself. They have been wonderful teachers. I am so grateful I’ve had the chance to be their student.

Paul Sather, Director, UNO Service Learning Academy

Human Connection

Winner of a Mother's Day poem contest, this young girl attends high school in San Juan Miraflores in a compound much like the one we are helping develop farther down the road. In the video her classmates and the principal join her in the reciting of the poem. As a fellow writer, this experience reminded me of one of the truths about the world I find the most fascinating: the simplicity of human connection.

I became aware of this phenomeon over several years of reading and recent work in UNO's Writer's Workshop. I've found that, to me, the most amazing thing about stories is that no matter how different a character's life is from the reader's, the reader can always relate and connect to the character.

This is true in real life as well. I may not have grown up in severe poverty, but I do know what it is like to be a girl who admires her mother, a writer, and a high school student. While I don't know what it is like to live without the comforts of America, I'd bet anything that she and I have fought with our parents and siblings, had our hearts broken by high school boys and gossiped about similar things with girlfriends. Even though we live different lives thousands of miles apart, we are more the same than different; and while this world is huge and has a population of almost seven billion people, in the end aren't we all doing the same thing?--Just trying to get by the best way we know how.

Erin Gesell: BA Creative Writing

The Program

The program is not yet finished, but several Peruvians and a few compadres in the class have asked me if I would return to Peru. My answer is unequivocally yes! Not only would I return to Peru has a visitor, but I would also encourage others to do so. If one is unexposed to Latin America, eager to learn about a developing country committed to its own progress and willing to have an experience involving service-learning, this course would fit the bill.

The academic portion of the UNO-in-Peru program was conducted on-line by the very capable Dr. Olga Celle, professor of urban sociology. Dr. Celle was born in Peru but has lived in Italy, Germany and the United States. She presently resides in Lima. She guided the students through a variety readings and preparations for their trip to Lima. Once in Lima the students could see the lessons they studies first hand.

The service-learning component might be somewhat new to the reader. It involves first learning about the demographics of a particular population (e.g. the impoverished children of Lima) both from an academic point of view (background litterature) and engaging the community (meeting with parents and teachers of those children) to discover what they believed to be their needs (in our case, the building of a nursery) and working hand in hand with the adults to assist in achieving that goal.

The mission was moving. At first the parents had no basis to trust the UNO students and faculty. Over the course of a year, the Lima parents, teachers and community witnessed the actual participation in the construction of their building. Last year, I am told, none of the Peruvians would chip in to help with the construction, labor or erection of the building. They just did not believe it would really happen. When the group came and started working, however, a few of the mothers began to help. No men would aid in the efforts. No men would attend the meetings. This year-–and I am a witness-–men participated in the meetings and worked side-by-side with the UNO entourage in bringing the community's dreams to fruition.

The children showed genuine care and excitement that we were there. Their exuberance was spontanteous. They wanted our hugs. We wanted to hug them. With my limited Spanish, I asked for, and they returned, their names. They inquired of mine. We also visited a school with which UNO may work next year. We visited each grade from preschool to high school. They made a variety of presentations-–from reading poetry, reciting history, and, get this, two young men even rapped a song making their own rhythmic beats with their hands imitating the drums. They obviously had practiced it to perfection. I bopped to the beat along side them. It was actually pretty good, even though I could not understand a word of the Spanish lyrics. The lines rhymed and were on time. I shook thier hands when they finished.

It was of special note that one parent asked that we not make promises that we could not keep like so many others have. I was not sure of her past references, but she was absolute right-–lame promises make liars out of those who utter them. I hope UNO can commit more. I hope that more UNO students and Omaha community members will get involved with UNO in Peru. It´s worth it!

Darryll Lewis, J.D., Finance, Banking and Law Department, CBA-UNO

Miraflores City Hall

We visited the Miraflores city hall on May 18, 2009. The group was coming from a long but pleasant ride through Lima’s middle and upper-class neighborhoods, so it made perfect sense to stop at Miraflores, one of the oldest and most diverse neighborhoods of all. http://www.miraflores.gob.pe/miraflores.html

The municipal palace was built in the mid-1940s after an earthquake destroyed the original one. The new palace is a handsome and discreetly elegant building. We were received in the Council’s work/meetings room, and Dr. Jimena Sanchez gave a brief presentation about Miraflores participatory budget.

I knew that Peruvians doubt American’s deep knowledge of Peru’s reality so, right before she arrived I asked Evan to give me the definition of Participatory Budget. He did well and Justin added a bit more detail to it. When Dr. Sanchez arrived, she began by saying, “Perhaps you are not too familiar with the idea of Participatory Budget.” I quickly responded, “Well, I really don’t know, why don’t we ask the students? Ok, Evan what is Participatory Budget.” As expected he gave a brilliant, complete and concise answer, impressing Sanchez about the group’s academic level. Way to go Evan and Justin!

At the end of our conversation, Councilman Luis Molina came to greet us. He brought along a book on Miraflores that he gave to Dr. Sather and (and this is the point of this posting) gave us free tickets to a ride on the Mirabus. This open top bus gives a 40 minutes tour by Miraflores’ parks. Today we will take the bus and lots of pictures. Thanks God it is a bright day in Miraflores!

Dr. Olga Celle

Gamarra

There is an American song which contains the familiar lyrics that “each day is sweeter than the day before.” Those musical lines characterize my view of the OLLAS program in Peru. At the end of each day, I marvel over the mind-broadening experiences to which the group has been exposed. Yesterday five of us (Janet West, Paul and Linda Sather, and Dr. Jonathan Benjamín-Alvarado) visited the Gamarra Garmet District (the students are scheduled to make a similar visit next week). By American standards, it would be considered blighted and impoverished. The District was a “gated community,” that is, it was surrounded by an iron fence keeping any unwanted out of the district. We were accompanied by two armed security gentleman who packed pistols in their sports jackets. Therein lies the paradox.

It is not that we were “unwanted” per se, but it was obvious that no one there knew who we were. You see, it is not exactly an open market as is understood in the United States. It is the vortex of much of the fabric and garment manufacturing in Latin America, and perhaps, in the United States. It has potential to be the same for the rest of the World. Not too long ago, Peru signed a trade agreement with China. We were told that the Peruvian police had to recently evacuate a Chinese businessman from the District. His life was in danger once rumor spread that he was in the District. The locals viewed his presence as a threat to their livelihood. Their beliefs may not have been unfounded.

Once in the District, we visited several shops wherein cloth was sewn into garments. We were allowed to observe the processes first hand and even take pictures. Among many adults, several of the workers were children. At first they all seemed a little squeamish at our presence; however, when they became the targets of the flashes of our digital cameras, they quickly warmed up, gave us high-five and thumbs-up gestures and smiled as we took pictures. Some of them grinned when we showed them their images.

The process was amazing. The sewn garments were of “export quality.” The young workers were even more amazing, and the process was highly detailed. Each worker in a given “shop” performed a specific task in the assembly of the final garments . Once completed, that “piece” was given to another worker to perform another task. Meeting the quality standards of the international garment industry, one could easily understand how the end product-–suits, dresses, pajamas, pants, blankets, mattresses, whatever-–could end up on the shelves and be the proud products of prominant American clothing retailers. However, the “Peruvian source” might be disguised by elusive governmental source-labeling rules.

We were allowed to purchase items if we wished, however, the real educational moment was to see and understand the human element associated with the production of products to be dispatched globally. When we left we understood better that the world´s economy could not function efficiently without the precious labor provided by these Peruvian youth. I thought about the ethical dilemma that I often present in our often sterile classrooms. Americans categorically condemn child labor. In Peru the labor provided by these children generates income for their families. Without this income they face abject poverty. Without their labor the rest of the world would not pay the consequent and inevitable retail prices. In reality, coming full circle, they are a crucial cog in making our lives “affordable.” Although a “third world” country by the Title Givers, they, in part, make our lives better.

Darryll Lewis, J.D., Finance, Banking and Law, CBA

A day In San Juan de Miraflores

Jonathan and I met with the group in the shantytown upon our return from Miraflores. The group had gone with Paul and Arturo to the nearby high school to see their necessities and to introduce themselves.













As they arrived in the shantytown, the parents (beacuse we have women and their husbands also) were eager and ready to start work. Everybody worked a lot and fast. I was the acting photographer for the day given that there is little physical work I can do. I also prepared their sandwiches :-) By the time we left, the module had been sealed for termites and painted (on the outside) in the color the familys wanted. Much work is still to be done. The parents will complete the new bathroom for the children. This bathroom will be a lot closer and will have two toilets and a sink, all this at children size. Very cute. Paul and Beani have been the busy stars going back and forth to buy materials. They are just great! Arturo is perfect for this. The mothers adore him and he relates great with the community. The students were working hard from the start, and so were faculty and community members. We have great pictures that I hope Oscar will post in the blog. There was an inspiring feeling all around. From the children, the mothers and fathers, to the teachers. I think that they finally trust us and are openly grateful and cooperating in everything. Everybody was happy working together. The children could not stay still within their classrooms, so the teachers had to let them take their chairs outside and watch the UNO group and their parents working in the module. At 2:15 the group began cleaning up and we left at 2:30. We were at the hotel by 3:00p.m. as planned. A great day for everybody!

Olga Celle de Bowman, Ph.D.Adjunct Professor Sociology

The Power of Education

Two plans cancelled in three days. That is how our week is ending. Today we were supposed to visit San Marcos school’s museum, however, the administration were on strike, so we could not visit. On Friday we were scheduled to meet with students and faculty at Federico Villarreal National University, but the administration is on strike there as well! I have always loved learning and tonight that passion and all the power it holds is on my mind.

In Lima, schools are controlled by at triumvirate: the administration, the faculty and the students. When one body pulls out in protest, the entire university halts. Even though in these cases it was not the students protesting, I find it great that students have power. I find it discouraging, however, they feel that have to go on strike to demand quality education, not only because they are not receiving an adequate education, but also because if they are on strike, they are not receiving any education at all!

We are here as students attempting to help Lima’s poorest population educate their children. Dr. Celle explained to me that these children will probably never leave the slums, and only the luckiest few will receive a two year degree before they return to the shantytown to live out their adult lives.

On our visit throughout Lima’s formal sector, we visited the neighborhoods of Lima’s wealthy inhabitants. Dr. Celle told us that the children of these neighborhoods are given a private education at European schools in Lima and then go off to college in Europe. How is Lima going to better its education system if its most educated inhabitants send their kids out of the country and shelter themselves in their private schools and gated communities to the outside world? How will the influential elite of Lima develop their city if they turn their backs on what is happening to half the population? More importantly, to me at least, how can these children rise out of poverty if the Neoliberal government does not allocate funds to their education?

While the quality is always debatable, education is at the fingertips of every child in the United States. Here, students go on strike to attempt to incite change, are shipped out of country and turn away from the horrific reality of Lima’s current economic state and parents and teachers have to build schools for their children because they squatted on, and now live on, a landfill with no school. If I believe anything, I believe that education is power. We students and faculty of Omaha are learning so much every day, and that knowledge and those experiences are giving us the power to change ourselves and the way we view the world, while improving the situation of many young students just starting their life of learning. Each day every individual has the power to use the things he/she learns to impact the world. Whether it is learning to love your neighbors, to volunteer in a far away country, to smile at everyone you meet, to set aside time to help others or simply to let go of past grudges, I challenge us all to use the power of education everyday to better our lives and the lives of those around us! A person’s education never stops—even if it is just the simple lessons, they must never be taken for granted.

Erin Gesell: BA Creative Writing

Peruvian Congress

Today we took a visit to the Peruvian Congress after an insightful briefing on the functions of the Congressional arena. Though the U.S. and Peruvian government are different on many levels, I felt comfortable in this type of environment through my past experiences. Last summer I had the wonderful opportunity to work as an intern in Washington. This internship exposed me to the political process, especially congressional work. The experience in D.C. gave me a wealth of knowledge that I hoped to now use for my thoughts on the Peruvian Congress.
Once we arrived to the Congress building, we entered the structure's gates and were immediately greeted by a tour guide. Inside, we walked through the lobby which displayed a massive painting of an early 1800’s Congress in session. After a brief introduction from our tour guide, she led us down a hallway where we passed the offices of some of Peru’s highest ranking political officials.
The hallway led to a corridor that opened into a room once used for the senate, which was eventually dissolved and dismissed. The old senate room was filled with paintings and stained glass and had a breathtaking design. The old room is now used for important meetings, especially those of international policies and interest. Finally we were brought to the actual congressional chamber to see Congress perform while in session. Unfortunately, we ended our tour with bad news when we were informed that we were not able to enter the chamber. This upset me, because I know that the U.S. Congress would never have turned away anybody, regardless of foreign visitors/tourist/students. This was not a big deal to others but was an indicator of the way Peru’s Congress handles their affairs. There was a cold feeling within our group knowing that security wouldn’t allow a group of Americans into the chamber; you can only wonder how hard it is for a citizen of Peru. Now we have the notion that things are simply not being done. The U.S. and Peruvian Congress are similar in terms of elegance, but in reality their prerogatives are far from being just “different.” The afternoon ended with a lunch in Chinatown and a free evening to venture the wonders of Lima.

Evan Winey: Political Science BS

The Jumper

This gentelman jumps from the cliff for two reasons. The first is in memory of a legendary story, but the second is in an effort to aquire an income. This coast is located within the Churillos district of Lima, and he is more than likely a resident of the informal sector, and therefore this dangerous jump is his job. Before taking the plunge he rallys the crowd from the cliffside to wave to him. He does this for several minutes until he gets enough support to jump. If he survives his jump into the rocky coastline of the cliff, each person that whitnessed his accomplishment is to pay him 1 sole, the equilvalent of 35 cents.

Oscar Duran: BA History, MA Urban Sociology, OLLAS Service Learning Staff

Resourses vs Development

I am slowly beginning to be accustomed to Lima. It is a city of organized chaos. To me, nothing is sane, and the city should not be functioning, but to those who grew up in and live in the city, take it as normal life.
We got to take a double-decker, open-top bus tour last night throughout various portions of the city. One place that really caught my attention was a fountain park. The park is in the Guinness book of world records as the largest fountain park in existence. There are tall, short, round, random, colored and geometrically shaped fountains flowing in this park. Many people pay to enter and entertain themselves with the various displays and shows that the fountains have to offer. There are even fountains in which a person can stand, play and get soaked, just for fun.

Well, in the midst of enjoying the beautiful architecture and creativity of the park, I was struck with a hard question to which I still don’t have a satisfactory answer. We had visited the shantytown the day before. A dusty, bland looking community that is full of a vibrant and thriving life. They have very, very, very scarce resources and more often than not the people forego many basic necessities to “survive.” So I wondered a couple things:
A) How can a city justify (ethically) using water for recreational and entertainment purposes when citizens within its limits are not having their needs of basic resources and clean water being met?
Some of my thoughts on that were that maybe instead of having “green spaces” (a popular development of the current mayor) throughout the city that are not efficient, why not create these spaces that incorporate the natural landscape of the land, i.e. a desert and its natural plant life, in an effort to direct water resources toward sustaining life in the shantytowns.
Along the same lines, another question:
B) What purpose do these projects serve in an effort to address the standard of living in Lima?

Looking at the options of use for the resources and what is going to be the most beneficial in terms of sustaining human life, to me, the preservation of life is more important than the aesthetically pleasing look of a particular landscape. When is it ever OK to address and then to feed wants before needs have been met?
My newest major is geography, specifically wanting to focus on natural resources, such as water, and the conservation of those resources; so all of this interests me a great deal as a first-hand, and in-depth case study.
Erin and I have been talking about this now for a few days, and here is a little snippet of food for thought, yet another question:
“All of the improvements we have seen in the city have been aesthetically pleasing, but what are they doing for the people of the city?”

Jillian Eisma: BA International Studies & Geography

Young Diplomats

A couple of days have passed since I last communicated from Lima. Since then, I have seen and learned a lot. With Lima being in the middle of a desert, it does not rain. I found it strange that a Pacific coastal city would be considered a desert city. No one has referred to it as a desert oasis. There is a shortage of water and all solutions need to consider the provision of water--things we take for granted. We traveled to a portion of town where on one side of the road was a man-made lake. On the other side there was dust and dirt far as far as the eye could see. The latter condition will characterize the worksite in which we will be working on the nursery. That´s the condition that describes where our Peruvian families live.

Yesterday we were greeted by representatives of Lima´s mayor. The mayor had other obligations. The assistant mayor made a presentation welcoming us to Peru. You could tell that he was quite proud of Lima. The vice mayor's assistant made a subsequent presentation which unveiled a host of challenges facing Lima. Lima has experienced a population explosion. This is from the migration of non-city dwellers of the Andean mountains into Lima. They are looking for work and a better life. Lima has grown from less than 2 million people to over 8 million in about 10 years. Shantytowns have sprung all over Lima's outskirts. Infrastructure varies from area to area, with most shantytowns having electricity, but the availability of water and sewage systems is not always as consistent. The constant and reliable provision of food, education and health care to over 50% (the percentage of Lima's habitants who are considered poor) of Lima´s population is a problem. These conditions have attracted the label of “third-world” to Lima. These problems present the governments of Lima and Peru great challenges in the futures. In part, this program is designed to explore the special issues created by Peru´s urban development problems.

I was privileged (and proud) to see our UNO students engage the mayoral staff. Our students sat like dignitaries in the parliament-like chambers of the mayor´s building. They listened intently while the mayor´s staff made its presentation. Afterward they intelligently asked questions concerning the wisdom of center urban plans. One could see that some of the questions made the staff uneasy. Later today we meet with the City Council of Miraflores, the municipal district in which our hotel is located. I expect more of the same from the Omahans.

As an aside, the city seat of government was one magnificient building located in the city square. With a tie to its Spanish colonial past, the buildings in that square were painted a deep, rich yellow with brown wooden balconies constructed on the side of the buildings. In that same square, we watched the changing of the guard at the Peruvian President´s executive mansion (much like the same at Buckingham Palace). The guards were dressed in red and blue and marched with cryptic but synchronized high steps. The changing of the guard took about 20 minutes.

We have experienced a variety of food. I cannot remember the names of many of the Peruvian dishes. The culinary experience has been exquisite. My personal delight is seafood. I have tasted many forms of octopus (my personal favorite) and will taste anything that the locals eat. It does not require much bravery, just an open mind.

Darryll Lewis: Associate Professor: J.D, CBA Finance & Banking

Progress

We made our first visit to the barrio today, where we will shall continue work on the daycare. It is a distance from where we are staying, and as you leave the city the economic disparities of the neighborhoods become apparent through the buildings' construction. When moving from the center you begin to see homes that are in a constant state of construction, where the first level was completed, but the additional stories are still being constructed. In the further periphery, houses are missing walls and roofs. The latter characterizes the "new neighborhood" in which we will be working.

Picture: neighborhoods we drove through leaving the city. U.N.O was here last year on the same trip. They built a small structure used for a day care . This year we are adding to that by building another structure directly across from the existing school.

The local government is full of unfulfilled promises, so instead of waiting for them to clean the area for construction and lay the foundation the mothers pitched in to buy and pour the cement. I was proud to find out that my payment for this trip contributed to foundation and frame of the new school.

Students, teachers and parents were there to welcome us when we got off the bus. They were so grateful and excited. The kids even had a song prepared to thank the gringos for their help.
The of the purposes of today's visit was to have a discussion to identify the needs and desires of the community. A bathroom is what they requested, with plumbing and child-size toilets, as well as a wall around the premises so that the students can play outside safe from cars and gangs.

The bathroom, though unexpected, was added to the budget, and the wall will temporarily be built from scrap.

Clare Watson: BA International Studies: BS Environmental Studies

Reflection

Today the group visited the Metropolitan Lima City Hall. It is an elegant structure with Italian marble stairs and European sculptures. It dates from the 1930s and was the last palace built in Lima downtown. We were directed to the Council's room where the Vice-Mayor welcomed us, and the Manager of Infrastructure and Development gave the group a PowerPoint presentation on this municipal administration’s accomplishments. (To see the themes of her lecture, check this website: http://www.munlima.gob.pe/obras.asp?pagina=2).

We learned first hand Mayor Castañeda’s official version of urban development.
In the afternoon the group was visited by architect Manuel Zubiate. Mr. Zubiate is the Director of Urbia, the Andean Corporation of Urbanism and a Lecturer at Oxford University. He is the author of the Costa Verde's Master Plan (Costa Verde is Lima's 17 km. coastline) and directed the redesign of Guayaquil's harbor, a postmodern project of urban renewal in Ecuador. http://www.malecon2000.com/fundacionmalecon2000/historia.asp

Mr. Zubiate is not an academician but an acting architect. He discussed his project of subsidies in housing ("Techo Propio") aimed at new building projects in shantytowns (2005), and his current experience designing a shopping area in Northern Lima--a successful shantytown that is fast turning into a "formal" section of town. Zubiate explained that this area’s marketing projections were inaccurate since many successful dwellers are choosing to move back to the "formal" city, even if it entailed living in smaller and more modest quarters. He attributed this new phenomenon to the crisis of the transportation system in the city. By then I noticed that the audience was getting frustrated. Here comes this famous guy talking about a million things, all problematic but unable to actually tell us the bottom line. Students began asking questions—shooting in all directions, why not? And Zubiate was smiling and giving brief polite answers. At some point he said to the audience: "See, there is something I did not tell you..." And then he moved on to explain a bottom line Third World fact: The city does not really have a lot of money. Actually, it has a very small purse, and the only thing that minicipal technocrats can do is a little bit of this here and a little bit of that there. In frustration I asked: "So, you are basically saying that what the current Mayor is doing is just fine: A fountain here, a park there, and a bridge back here." “Yes,” he answered, always smiling. "Actually," he said, "what I am saying is that this city’s Mayor, any Mayor, has very little resources and because of that, s/he has to use these monies intelligently. And, the current Mayor is not doing that." This was a break in his winding talk; he suddenly moved to show us a few urban development mistakes done by sloppy or poorly prepared technocrats. In the end inefficiency is the daughter of corruption and nepotism. But… isn’t he walking us into his apolitical view of the world?
New professionals, such as Zubiate, are approaching urban renewal lately as targeting specific nods in the urban network, which like acupuncture needles in a sick body, will create a neuralgic reaction that might cure the system. This way of thinking among urban designers avoids huge programs and focuses in developing perfect partial projects instead, in the hope to have a systemic reaction. Or perhaps they just settle for a beautiful creative product that could invite others to create similar others and in the process trigger a snowball effect.
If we want to give this approach a chance, we could begin by accepting the awful truth: big plans have not worked in Latin American cities. They require a great deal of political stability and lots of money. We have neither. Thus, let’s recognize the pragmatism of this viewpoint.
On the other hand, I cannot help to wonder what happens to those left behind by both corrupt/inept Mayors and honest/efficient urban experts like to Zubiate. How about urban renewal from the bottom up? I dare to think. How about asking urban residents what kind of city they would like to inhabit, and then (and only then) call the architects and have them materialize the people’s projects? Wouldn’t this ensure a bit more continuity in urban projects?

Dr Celle: PHD Sociology: OLLAS Service Learning Staff

Hope

When we entered the town and drove down the dirt streets of Lima’s desert, through narrow paths, between cardboard houses, and to homes that were built overnight on an invaded landfill; I was in disbelief. How can a government let its people live like this? Hundreds of thousands of people live in the shantytowns of Lima. My American mindset screamed to me the unfairness of the situation. Why isn’t something being done to improve their lives? When the bus pulled around the corner of the newly built module on which we will be working, and dozens of children and their parents held welcome and thank you signs, however, the farthest emotion from what I felt at that moment was despair. I have never felt as hopeful as when those small children looked at us with Cheshire cat smiles and small waving hands.
Fifty percent of the children living in extreme poverty, like these, in Lima will die before they reach the age of three. Eighty percent of children in these conditions die before the age of seven. But here we are looking to the future, a brighter future, and it is hopeful.
The mothers were quite an inspiration as well. They were beaming and dedicated to that hopeful future. We met to ask the mothers what they wanted us to do, and in addition to painting the module for the nursery, they hoped we would help build a bathroom for the school and a wall around the area to keep out cars, stray animals, and trespassers up to no good. We did not plan on making the bathroom, but we will find a way, and minutes after the conclusion of the meeting, the women began building the wall. Innovative and resourceful, they grabbed whatever materials lay nearby and had a fourth of the wall constructed in an hour. As for the colors to paint the nursery, they asked for colores alegres—happy colors. We will be purchasing chartreuse and blue paint to match the teacher’s apron.
I put up this picture of this beautiful little boy, but please do not feel sorry for him and his small friends. Look in his eyes and see his future. Have hope because that is what is carrying them. They are so loved and deserve our confidence in their futures.
When asked what Lima’s biggest problem is, our guest speaker tonight, Manuel Zubiate, told us it is faith. The people of Lima need to believe that their situations can change, feel that they can contribute to that change and have faith in politicians who will make the right decisions. After visiting the shanty town and seeing people who are truly working together with all they have to better their lives and the lives of their children, I feel I have seen the best and most hopeful side of human nature.

Erin Gesell: BA Creative Writing

At first Glance

At first glance nothing about this advertisement drew my attention. However, after the 14th of such advertisements I realized something was missing from a majority of billboard, television, and magazine advertisements. The models portrayed are mostly white, and the adverts are almost completely void of actors and models that reflect Lima’s ethnically diverse society. This struck me as odd, and some quick research revealed that only about 10 percent of the entire Peruvian population consider themselves white. This makes me wonder how much of a role the media plays in facilitating the marginalization of indigenous and colored people in Peru.
I brought this question up to Dr. Celle in one of our nightly meetings and discovered some interesting facts. The media in Peru really does influence the way people think and facilitates racism in many different ways. In Peru almost all television characters are white, and a large proportion of advertisements use whites. Also, white women are portrayed as idolized house wives, immaculate professionals, and beautiful sex objects in bikinis. White men are portrayed as professionals as well. Blacks and indigenous people are portrayed as maids, cooks, doormen and servants in advertisements and television. In many instances they are eroticized and portrayed as exotic and mystical.
I think that the media’s portrayal of one race being superior to another has greater influences society more than most of us think. It is logical then to suspect that the racial discourse in Peru between the white minority and indigenous/colored people in Peruvian society is only strengthened by media and advertising.

Jason Melton: BA Political Science & Speech Communication

The Contrast in Culture

In only the first three days of being in Lima, I have seen an extreme contrast in Peruvian culture. Yesterday we took a trip to the shantytowns which make up an overwhelmingly large portion of the population living in destitute poverty. The people were thrilled upon our arrival and saddened upon our departure. Today we visited the Mayor’s offices and Presidential palace. This part of town has a touch of French architecture that gives visitors the notion of a prosperous government. However, there are two worlds in this mega-city, the powerful and the powerless.

Evan Winey: BS Political Science

El Museo Larco

There has long been a misconception in my head that sophistication and civilization were borne out of the mountains and plains of Europe. Boy, am I ever far off the mark! Our first day in Lima offered an in-depth look at the roots of life that were not planted by the Europeans but rather cultivated by them much later in time. I was reminded that the reality is that all ranges of intelligence and life were thriving across the globe. Specifically in Lima/Peru long before a Spaniard ever set foot in the Americas, and that blows my mind! El Museo Larco is a prime example of the testament of the Incan civilization (and other indigenous people of Peru before them) and their accomplishments. This was by far the most interesting part of the day for me, but then again, I do love history.
To me, there is something wonderful and awe-inspiring about witnessing and experiencing that collision of history with reality. All semester long I have learned about the Latin American city and its emergence and construction, and now I sit on the fringes of one of these mega-cities. I often have the misconception of hearing the word “Indians” or “natives” and interpreting it as a backward society that was no smarter than the rocks they built their homes with at the time. That picture is entirely off balance, and I adore being reminded of it.
Our first day in Lima we had visited the Museum Larco where thousands upon thousands of Incan artifacts reside for the public to experience a moment of history face to face. Statues, idols, pots and urns, masks, tapestry and mathematically-related knotted ropes adorned every wall. Delicate jewelry and ornamental decorations lie in pristine condition behind glass displays. I can not comprehend the mastery of their skills and their attention to detail. Their creativity is portrayed with such earnestness in each piece that it was impossible for me to not give attention to each one that I passed. There was a giant section of the building dedicated to storage of thousands of pots, and this painted pottery looks new because the colors are still so vibrant. Statues and masks have black holes for eyes that lure you in closer, and one cannot help but gaze into the depths of the blackness.
There is an intricate love and devotion that is given to this museum and its belongings to preserve that which Peru came to share with the world. A wonderful lesson for all to learn to learn from there. It is exciting to be able to live within the ancient history everyday so far in Lima.

Jillian Eisma: BA International Studies & Geography

My Arrival

We arrived in Lima almost 48 hours ago on a late Friday evening, May 15, 2009. This is not the first time that I have traveled internationally, but it is the first time that I have traveled to South America. It is also the first time that I have been on a flight for approximately 6-7 hours only to end up in the same time zone.

The Lima Airport was modern. When we arrived and cleared customs, there were tons of people waiting for friends and relatives. We looked for, and finally found, our greeter who took us to our hotel on a committed van. It was dark and quite foggy. Some indicated that it was smog from the highly-polluted city of Lima. After I saw the moonlight about a half-hour later, I opined that it was fog. This is Peru´s winter characterized by lots of clouds but oddly little, if any, rain. It was about 60 degrees, cool but comfortable. The airport to hotel ride was about 45 minutes. I was excited to see the city and the city life. This was my first time in Lima.

We traveled on main thoroughfare. I forgot its name, but it was full of energy, people and life. This was a Friday night in Lima approaching midnight. I suppose like the rest of the World, it was a time for people to let their hair down.

We finally arrived at our hotel it was about 12:30 a.m. The clerk indicated that the city did not sleep. That was good, because I was hungry. A group of about 5 walked a half-mile and found a street full of pizza establishments as well as dancing clubs. We first walked through the area and found the most quiet of the pizzerias (many of them blasted super loud music) and ate on an outdoor terrace. We ordered a variety of food (I ordered chicken and fries). As we ate we observed the people while they walked by and marveled that we were in Lima, Peru, South America!

I was surprised that I woke up around 6:00 a.m. and the sun was already up. I was alert. Last night I learned that the ocean was about 20 minutes away from the pizzeria. This morning I decided I was going to discover the ocean. I retraced our way to the restaurant, and then turned to my right to make the trek to the oceanside. It was about 7:00 a.m. Saturday morning. The place was full of life--buses, workers, joggers, and people walking their animals. I wondered if they could tell that I was foreigner, and if I could sufficiently communicate if I had to–my Spanish is quite limited. I dispelled all those inhibiting thoughts as I made my way down to the ocean. Its discovery was breathtaking. The road led to a cliff which hung over the Pacific Ocean. The fog obscured the ocean´s presence. I thought I was encountering an adjacent road when nature unveiled its magnificence–voila, the Pacific Ocean and its grandeur, the waves gently hitting the shore and then retreating, with their successors to follow. I stopped my fast walk for a minute just to take in the moment.

Darryll Lewis: Associate Professor: JD, CBA Finance, Banking

Greetings and Welcome

Greetings all! Today is the launch date of the UNO service group’s posts. We arrived late Friday and have finally have had the opportunity to begin to submerse our group into the city of Lima. Together our group makes up 14 individuals from a variety of different fields. The thing unifying us is our love for education and our love for society. Immediately proceding this post you will be able to read several articles daily about the many different experiences of what we are having in this country. Between the 14 of us, readers and followers of this blog will have a variety of topics to choose from for your own analyses. I strongly encourage readers and followers of our blog to ask the individual authors of these articles about anything of which you are curious. Please use this blog as an opportunity to learn about this unique country. I am confident any reader from any field will find something that will catch your interest. Thank you all kindly for your time and I am so excited to see what types of discussions will occur. Paz Y Bien

Oscar Duran, BA History: MA Urban Sociology: OLLAS service learning staff

San Juan de Miraflores

San Juan de Miraflores is a district of the Lima Province in Peru. It is located in the Cono Sur area of the city of Lima and was officially established as a district on January 12, 1965. In South America San Juan de Miraflores is referred to as one of the "pueblos nuevos," or new towns, that have been formed by the massive numbers of people moving from other parts of Peru due to Lima's primacy.
Today residents of this informal sector of Lima reside in houses of hodgepodge building materials, most in a state of continual construction with progress only continuing as residents can afford each additional brick. Resources are highly scarce and often unaffordable. The dirt roads of the neighborhood are filled with piles of rubble. Several residents have access to electricity, but many lack running water or plumbing. When the wind blows in this neighborhood the dust from the dirt roads makes it difficult to see what is in front of you.
When I was in Lima last year, and the dust settled I was not only able to see something amazing, but to learn something amazing, as well. What I saw was the true powers of community organization and networking at their highest levels. In the last few years, women of this neighborhood began organizing in an effort to accomplish a common agenda. Their children did not have a safe place to stay during the day while they worked. These women began to organize and eventually made a structure. They began to network themselves with people of the academic community. The network chain progressed and eventually led across the globe to Nebraska.
This Friday, May 15 a new group of heartland students and community members will be returning to continue our service education. The neighborhood where the UNO Service Learning group will return to work with the local community, may appear informal and poor, but we must remember we have so much to learn there, and I am so excited and appreciative to see what I shall learn this year.

Oscar Duran, OLLAS Service Learning staff